Just a few good things to know

When reading the below, remember that all pups follow their own guide, and grow at their own rate--other guides (listed below chart), are better for knowing what is "right" than just ht/wt data.
That said, here is a general guide:
Birth weight: 1-2 lbs
Week 1: 2-3 lbs
Week 2: 3-5 lbs
Week 3: 4-7 lbs
Week 4: 5-8 lbs
Week 6: 12-20 lbs
Month 2: 18-27 lbs (13-17")
Month 3: 30-45 lbs (17"-22")
Month 4: 50-65 lbs (21"-25")
Month 5: 65-85 lbs (25"-30")
Month 6: 70-100 lbs (27-32")
Month 7: 75-110 lbs (27-33")
Month 8: 80-115 lbs. (27-34")
Month 9: 85-120 lbs. (28-34")
One year: 90-135 lbs (28-36")
Full grown: 100-190 lbs (28"-38")
For males, 140-170 lbs. & 33-36" is typical.
for females 110-140 & 30-33" is typical.

NOTE: Some Danes may actually weigh less/be smaller a bit less than this chart indicates, a few may weigh more--but more in this case is probably an indication the pup is being overfed & growing too fast (or the dog in question is too fat). If not, he is likely over boned-so he *really* then needs to stay slim, as heavy boned dogs are more prone to joint & bone problems.

**Remember the only requirement under the standard is 28" to 30" for females & 30" to 32" for males (and that was generally intended to apply specifically to adult danes.** When there was a weight guide in the standard, that 30" female was expected to weigh 110 - 140lbs. & that 32" male 140 - 175 lbs. Balance is what the standard calls for

 Gastric Dilatation Volvulus (bloat)

 A life-threatening condition that icommon in large breed dogs like a Great Dane.

Bloat occurs when the stomach twists on itself, trapping air and gas inside. This can cause the stomach to bloat, which puts pressure on the other organs in the abdomen. If left untreated, bloat can lead to death.

The exact cause of bloat is unknown, but there are several risk factors that have been identified. Large and giant breed dogs are most at risk for developing bloat. Other risk factors include:

1. Genetics
2. Gut Health
3. Anxiety
4. Predisposed breeds

Gastropexy Surgical Procedure

The Gastropexy surgery is conducted on high-risk breeds with deep chests and is a preventative measure to keep the stomach from torsion (Twisting).

In this surgery, the surgeon will tack the stomach to the body wall in order to prevent it from twisting. This is a major surgery that requires anesthesia but has been shown to be effective in preventing bloat.

The Gastropexy surgery is not 100% effective in preventing bloat, as there are other factors that can contribute to bloat (such as anxiety), but it can help to minimize the risk.

The gastropexy surgery works as a preventative surgery for the twisting stomach (torsion), but does NOT stop the process of air filling the dog’s stomach if bloat does happen.

Select the right crate.  

Crates come in different sizes and styles. Be sure to choose the correct size crate for your puppy.  It should be just big enough for him to stand up and turn around in.  As your puppy grows, you may need a larger crate. You may consider purchasing an adult-size crate that can be blocked off as he grows. Make sure you can block it off, so your puppy doesn’t have access to an enormous crate.  If it’s too big, he’ll feel comfortable peeing or pooping in it. 

Be patient. 

 Crate training can take days or weeks. Two important things to remember when crate training puppies are to always associate the crate with something pleasant, and be patient

Put the crate in an area of the home where the family spends time, such as the living room or family room.  Dogs don’t enjoy being isolated – they want to be with the family/pack! Keep the crate door open and allow the puppy to explore the crate as he wishes.  Some puppies will be curious and enter the crate right away – others will be more apprehensive.

Using a cheerful tone of voice, invite the puppy over to the crate.  Make sure the door is wide open so it won’t hit him and startle him as he pokes his head inside.  Encourage the puppy to go inside the crate by putting small food treats just inside the crate…then a few deeper in.  Don’t force the puppy to go inside. Let him take his time.  Keep tossing treats inside the crate until your puppy is calmly walking all the way inside the crate to get the food.  This step could take two minutes – or several days.  It is crucial for you to be patient and not force it. 

 Give Your Puppy All of His Meals In the Crate. 

 This will create a positive, pleasant association with the crate.  If your puppy is comfortable entering the crate, place the food dish all the way to the back of the crate.  If your puppy is reluctant to enter the crate, then put the dish just inside the crate at first – moving it a tad further toward the back of the crate at each feeding. 

 Start Leaving Him in the Crate for Short Periods of Time. 

Once he’s eating all of his meals inside the crate with no anxiety, whining, or fear, you can start to leave him inside the crate for short periods of time.  Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.  Then point to the inside of the crate and encourage him to enter with a treat.  Give him praise once he’s inside, give another treat, and close the door.  Sit quietly near the crate for a few minutes (5 or 10).  Then go into another room for a few minutes. 

 Start Crating Your Puppy When You Leave.  

Leave him in the crate when you’re gone from the house for short periods of time, or letting him sleep in the crate at night. It can take several days or several weeks for him to adjust. Keep at it, breaking your routine will cause more stress and the process may have to be restarted.

 Crating Your Puppy at Night.  

Use the same procedures you’re using when you leave.  Direct your puppy to the crate using the regular command, and reward him with a treat once he’s inside.  If you’re crating a young puppy, you may want to place the crate near your room because he’ll have to be let outside sometime during the night to go potty until he gets older.